Tag Archive for 'San Telmo'

A Day In The Life

Today was perfect.  The weather was grand, I found a neon shirt consisting of a kaleidoscope of purple, pink, and turquoise, and I got to listen to some serious jazz for two hours in Plaza Dorrego.

I really enjoy these solo days where I wander the city aimlessly.  I think it’s my favorite form of exploration.  I never have a plan in mind, besides picking a barrio and wandering.  Today I chose San Telmo.  Calle Defensa is its heart, and I perused the street’s myriad antique shops for a couple of hours looking for the useless knick-knacks that I so adore.  While I didn’t find any marbles or ancient watches like I had hoped, I was struck by a blaze of neon in a little clothes boutique window.  There, in all it’s chest-hair baring glory, was my dream shirt:

2928520398 b096d854f4 m A Day In The Life

I’ve nicknamed it “El Fuego,” for the record.

After paying my respects to the fashion gods that brought me this gift from on high, I stumbled upon Plaza Dorrego where a dude was setting up his amp and guitar.  The guy proceeded to play jazz electric guitar for the next two hours while I wrote in my journal and sipped on some vino rojo.  When he finished his set, I asked him if he played any clubs and it turns out he’s playing next week!  I got his name and told him I’d try to make his show.  I really can’t imagine a better way to spend an afternoon.

San Telmo

San Telmo is one of the oldest barrios in Buenos Aires, and used to be considered pretty unsafe.  It has undergone a big revitilization though, and is definitely a fun spot now.  In fact, my Bridge TEFL class was in a building on calle Defensa, the main artery running through the barrio.  The whole place is criss-crossed by cobblestone streets, little antique stores, and quirky shops.

Every Sunday Defensa is completely overtaken by a massive crafts and antiques fair.  It’s awesome.  Tons of crazy old antiques, hand-made jewelry, art, photography, books, pretty much whatever you can think of.  I scored a great hand-woven alpaca wool sweater for the equivalent of $20 at the fair yesterday.  It actually fits great and is softer than any shirt I own.  My new friend Alana also got some jewelry for herself.  I love spending an afternoon checking old knick-knacks and brick a brac.

After our wanderings we tried a restaurant my guidebook recommended, and it turned out to be a pretty nice spot.  It was named Lezama for any of you locals or fellow travelers.  Menu big as a textbook and portions to match, but still cheap.  You can find it at Avenida Brasil 359.  Food can hit or miss down here, but so far my guidebook hasn’t let me down.  If anyone is thinking about traveling to Buenos Aires, the Time Out guide is perfect for young people.

I should have pictures posted up here soon to accompany my posts, but this dang flickr widget keeps giving me trouble.  Stay tuned!