Tag Archive for 'Buenos Aires'

Yes, I’m Alive

Published on August 1, 2009 in Travel. 1 Comment Tags: Buenos Aires, Seoul.

Welcome back!

Yes, I know I suck at blogging.

I’ve been a bum and haven’t updated, but that doesn’t mean there’s been a shortage of developments. I’ve left Buenos Aires, traveled extensively, arrived in the US, and am currently preparing for a year long position teaching English in Seoul, starting on the 19th. That’s the short version.

Long version: I left Buenos Aires in June, and arrived on US soil again just three days ago. During my trip I visited Salta, Cafayate, San Pedro de Atacama, did the salt flats tour, visited Potosí, Sucre, La Paz, biked the Death Road, visited Copacabana and Isla del Sol, Cusco, hiked the Inca Trail, and chilled in Lima until I flew home. All in all, it was an absolutely fantastic sojourn to end my time in South America (for now).

Back in March I decided to apply for a teaching position in Seoul, South Korea, and I found out not long ago that I had been accepted for the job. I’m flying out to Seoul on the 19th of this month, and I’m starting to get giddy again for a new adventure. My friend Justin from UNC will be coming with me, and we’ve got big plans for blogging and putting together some videos for all you folks back home.

Now that you’re caught up, stay tuned for some more in-depth posts about my big trip, and also preparations for Seoul!

PS- Just posted a ton of photos on my Flickr account, so feel free to check out the photo tab above or head straight there!

New Digs, New Developments

Published on March 18, 2009 in Buenos Aires. 1 Comment Tags: Buenos Aires, Kilca Backpackers.

I think I’ve stumbled into the perfect situation down here. I’ve been looking to reduce my expenses in an effort to save for a long trip at the end of my time in Argentina, and I ran across a Craigslist ad for a hostel in need of a night clerk in exchange for a free bed. Kilca Backpackers offered me the bed in exchange for working the night shift 3 times a week, which couldn’t be easier.

Duties include answering the door and phone, checking in guests and answering their questions, and generally just being there for whatever comes up. Usually I just chat with guests, listen to music, and work on my various writing projects. It’s right up my alley.

I also love the other people that work here, everyone has really interesting tales of their wanderings around South America. It’s nice to have a constant stream of new folks coming through that are generally chill and unique.

I was out of commission for a little while there dealing with getting settled and hunkering down on some big projects, but I’m back full force now. I should have some new pictures up from the hostel and around Buenos Aires real soon.

6 Months In, Where Do I Stand?

Published on February 27, 2009 in Buenos Aires and Travel. 4 Comments Tags: Buenos Aires.

Alright folks, gird your loins, because this one’s a doozy. Monday marked the 6-month anniversary of my time here in Buenos Aires, and I’ve decided to sit back and take stock of my experiences here. So kick back, brew some coffee, and don your reading glasses.

When I first decided to come down to Buenos Aires, I had two friends that were supposed to accompany me. Offering me assurances that they were definitely coming, I went ahead and purchased my one-way ticket to Argentina. Lo and behold, they both ended up having to back out. Being forced to fly solo was a bit scary at the time, but I had a two months to wrap my head around it and ended up relishing a chance to strike out on my own with a complete lack of a support network.

My arrival in Buenos Aires and my first few weeks were a frenetic mix of culture shock, settling in, and scrambling to complete my TEFL course. The language barrier was also firmly in place, since my Spanish was very rusty at that point and came from Spain besides. Once I finished my course and started to get my bearings, I began teaching English and job hunting for other opportunities on the side. Make no mistake, living as an expat on a TEFL salary is no easy task, and those pretty websites pimping the experience fail to illustrate the financial reality of what it really is.

It was after a month or so of being here that the idea of a blog came up, more from my laziness towards answering personal emails than any burning need to write. But once I started writing I quickly realized I enjoyed it immensely and it became a sort of cathartic release when something baffled me or I had a particularly trying day. Once people began commenting on my writing, I figured I’d give it a whirl as a means to support myself.

Not a week after I started looking into freelance resources and ways to break into writing, I nabbed an interview with MiniHostels for a staff writing position. They actually checked out my blog when we spoke, and I ended up getting the job. I enjoyed working for MiniHostels, and got paid to research and write about what I loved (travel). I wrote tour reviews, backpacker articles, and itineraries, I got to interview hostels and businesses, and stayed for free at hostels in our network. All in all, a plum job.

I worked for them until January, when a cash flow crisis caused us writers to get snipped. Since then I’ve bounced around from writing gig to writing gig, and have landed some steady work doing web copy for a couple of companies. I hope to launch my own website for my services soon, and then be off to the races.

So here I am at 6 months, bouncing around from apartment to hostel to apartment, working whatever job comes my way, and trying to stay afloat down here in America del Sur. It’s been a hell of a ride, and I’m excited to see where the merry-go-round will let me off. I’ve looked into hopping over to work on an organic farm down in Patagonia for a month or two, and teaching English in summer camps in China and Italy. I’ve got no set plans or responsibilities, I’m rudderless, but I like the feeling of uncertainty and not knowing what the next day will bring. I originally planned on settling down in the US after a year abroad, but at this point I have no idea when I’ll make it back, this is just too addicting.

If you’re just out of college and debating whether to pull the trigger on a crazy trip, or you’re wrapped up in a job and want to take a break for a round the world trip, do it. This experience has been mind-blowingly awesome.

Look Ma I’m On TV!

Published on February 9, 2009 in Buenos Aires. 0 Comments Tags: Buenos Aires, Current TV, Financial Crisis.

A month and a half ago I was contacted about taking part in a documentary through this blog. Produced by Current TV, they wanted the viewpoints of young Americans living in Argentina on the recession currently gripping the US, as well as what our Argentine friends thought of the crisis.

Well, Saturday night we all met up in Palermo for a round-table discussion, and it was actually really fun. Our group of Americans ranged from 23 to 34 years old, with professions ranging from TEFL teacher to travel consultant. The only common theme was our expatriate status.

Questions focused mainly on how our experiences here in Buenos Aires could translate into helpful advice for young Americans. My posts on self-sufficiency and thriftiness came to mind pretty quickly, and I ended up sharing some budgeting advice and purchasing tips that I use down here. Since I’m a bit of a personal finance nerd, it was great to hear other viewpoints from people at or around my own age.

Advice from Argentine friends varied, but my personal experience with my TEFL students (some of whom were Accenture economists) was that that this sort of wake-up call would be healthy for the US. Rampant credit card debt, living beyond our means, buy buy buy; these are all going to have to stop. Argentines have been living very frugally ever since the collapse of 2001, so this new crisis is old hat for them. I’ve not seen any sort of self-pity or “woe is me” acts coming from young people here, and my perception from the news that I catch in Argentina is that this is pretty common in the US right now. Hopefully this collective belt-tightening will translate to more responsible habits for my generation (the fresh out of college).

All in all, I really enjoyed taking part in the documentary and was glad I got to hear so many different viewpoints. It sparked a lot of debate and made me examine my own views on money in a new light. The producers who filmed us said the documentary should be out sometime around May, so I’ll be sure to post again when I know the exact date!

What Can Long-Term Travel Teach You? Pt. 4

Published on February 4, 2009 in Expat Advice and Travel Advice. 1 Comment Tags: Advice, Buenos Aires, Long-Term Travel.

After reaching the 5 month anniversary of my arrival in Buenos Aires last week, I sat down and examined some of my experiences down here. A common theme amongst my thoughts was figuring out this weird twilight world that I exist in between being a gringo and a porteño. My cultural awareness after living in another country for this long (outside of the study abroad bubble) has skyrocketed.

Any news I read online about Obama or current events in the US in general is reflected through the lens of Argentines when I hear it on the streets. It’s an odd sort of distortion, but it forces me to analyze the news with a more critical eye after hearing so many different viewpoints. I get to participate in all sorts of Argentine traditions that don’t exist or are very different in the US (asados = barbecues, maté = coffee, etc.).

I’ve also been fortunate to have a window into how people in other countries live through my English teaching. Family here in Argentina is very important. Most of my students were middle-aged professionals with children, and they loved to talk about them. I see adults walking with their elderly parents everyday, and family meals I’ve been invited to can stretch on for hours. It’s refreshing, and something I’m not used to coming from the go go GO culture of the states.

I’m only in the beginning of my travels, but already I can tell I’ll end up as a smorgasbord of different traditions and lifestyles. Few things bring me more joy than learning about distant peoples and traveling to new places, I love to explore. I’m getting giddy right now thinking about the plans I have for the next year…

Travel can seriously broaden your horizons if you’ll let it. I constantly find myself checking my assumptions because of my time here, examining it through the eyes of people outside the microcosm that is the United States. Give travel a chance and you’re sure to have a similar experience!

You can see the earlier posts from this series here:

Bailando a Bomba de Tiempo

Published on January 28, 2009 in Buenos Aires. 2 Comments Tags: Bomba de Tiempo, Buenos Aires.

One of my favorite activities in Buenos Aires is Bomba de Tiempo, a massive percussion group performance every Monday night. It’s held at Konex, which is a large open-air performance space. These guys bring non-stop energy to their shows every week, and if you’re in Buenos Aires and like live music you’ve got to make it to a show.

They put all the drum circles from my hometown to shame; everyone in the crowd just throws themselves around with abandon. If any of my friends still needed confirmation that I’m a dirty hippie, all they have to do is accompany me to one of these shows. It’s like a mosh pit but with a crunchy hippie groove. Cartman would hate it.

Couch Surfing always has a really big presence there, and they’re fun to grab a drink and chat with beforehand. You’ll meet all sorts of other interesting characters just walking around during the show. Can’t recommend it enough!

Una Cena con Casa SaltShaker

Published on January 17, 2009 in Buenos Aires and Restaurants. 6 Comments Tags: Buenos Aires, Casa SaltShaker, Restaurants.

I wanted to make my parents’ visit special while they were in Buenos Aires, and I had heard from some reliable sources that Casa SaltShaker was a great way to spend an evening. It’s a supper club run by an expat and his Peruvian partner, and they’ve got it down to a science. Dan, the proprietor / chef / sommelier / kitchen wunderkind did not disappoint. We shared drinks with the other dinner guests while everyone was arriving, and sat down to one of the few communal dinner tables in Buenos Aires after swapping stories.

Each evening’s menu has a specific theme, and ours was the Teapot Dome Scandal of 1921. All of the menu items had some sort of tea used in their preparation. We started with an excellent salad:

This was the first time I’d had a salad with pistachios, and it worked beautifully. The rest of the ingredients include red onions, spinach, feta cheese, and fresh peas. The dressing was a Spring Mint tea-infused vinaigrette. Then soup:

Potato soup. Simple and delicious. He used a Calm blend of tea here for the soup stock, and also added in leeks and onions. I think the soup gets a tie for first place of the evening in my mind. The soup was followed by an Italian dish:

Langanelli is an unevenly cut wheat pasta, and Dan tossed it with sauteed chickpeas, celery, and olive oil, then added cubed chicken rubbed in Indian Market tea. It was very good, but the salmon to follow came in neck and neck for the top spot with the potato soup:

Great, great dish. I’m a huge fan of salmon to begin with, and I’ve never had it combined with polenta. The salmon was rubbed with the Chinese Soul tea blend and baked, then placed atop the polenta with drizzled brown butter. And for those with a sweet tooth:

The dessert was a peach custard tart using cream infused with Rooibos tea from Africa. I don’t have much of a sweet tooth but I enjoyed a couple of nibbles.

Also, though not pictured each course comes with a wine pairing, and I have to say that every wine we had was excellent. Do keep in mind though that I’m 23 and know next to nothing about wines beyond the fact that 5 glasses leaves me a little tipsy. My parents and I thoroughly enjoyed our dinner there, and I can’t recommend it enough for a unique night out if you’re visiting Buenos Aires. Here’s a crowd shot, with Dan standing:

For more information on our evening, Dan has posted the menu here (with comments), as well as an explanation on his own food blog, Saltshaker. I’d also like to thank Henry, Dan’s partner and our host for the evening.

PS- Shout out to my sister Courtney and cousin Ashley for getting into UNC, GO HEELS!

Bon Voyage A Mis Padres

Published on January 10, 2009 in Buenos Aires and Travel. 1 Comment Tags: Buenos Aires.

Last night I saw my parents off from the sidewalk of my apartment, after their week long visit to Argentina. It was great to see them, and I was really happy to show them around because they don’t get to travel as much as they’d like to (I’m one of eight children, logistics make it tough). We ate at all of my favorite restaurants, spent two days in Iguazu, saw a tango show, and generally had a grand time. Heck, my mom even got to spend a couple of luxurious hours at the Home Hotel Spa. Here are some photos:

That said, I am very glad to be settling back in. I underestimated how tiring being a tour guide can be. 2009 is officially here, and I’ve got some big plans for this blog, my travels, and conquering the writing world… stay tuned!

10 Things Expats In BA Should Take Advantage Of

Published on December 8, 2008 in Buenos Aires, Expat Advice and Travel Advice. 7 Comments Tags: Buenos Aires, Expat, Travel Resources.

I wrote this up over the weekend for MiniHostels, but I think it’s great stuff to have for anyone looking to live as an expat in Buenos Aires. Some of these are specific to here, but anyone looking to travel long term can take advantage of resources like Wikitravel or Craigslist. Without further ado, my top 10 expat / Buenos Aires resources:

1. BA Expats

BA Expats is a great resource. It’s a forum run by expats, for expats. You can get all of your questions answered here by people who have been living in Buenos Aires for years. BA Expats was the first site I found when I started doing research on living down here, and I still use it daily to organize meet ups and ask questions that pop up from time to time. There are lots of great people that will be more than happy to help you with your transition.

2. Expat Connection

Expat Connection is similar to BA Expats, but organizes more events and meet ups. They have a calendar where they post things ranging from group trips to medical insurance information sessions. Their forum is not nearly as active as BA Expats. Combine Expat Connection with BA Expats and you’ll be very plugged into what’s happening here in Buenos Aires for foreigners.

3. Craigslist

Craigslist is the best of the best for finding apartments and work in Buenos Aires. Craigslist is constantly updated with room shares and a huge range of apartments fitting any price range, sure to fit the needs of anyone that needs a place to stay. They also usually beat the prices of securing a room from abroad by a fair margin. It’s also the best resource for finding a job in the city. The job board is updated with many jobs daily, and if you pay attention over the course of a week or two you’re sure to find something that suits you. You can also use it to find odds and ends like a bike or cheap electronics. Can you tell I’m a fan?

4. The Guia T

The Guia T is the single most useful tool for getting around the city of Buenos Aires. It can be bought at any newsstand in the Microcentro, for just 5 or 6 pesos. More than worth the price tag. It’s features include an index of every street in greater Buenos Aires corresponding to a numbered grid mapping system, a map of the subway system, and every single bus line that runs within the city. Using the grids, you can look up which buses stop in that area, and by looking up the specific bus line in the index, you can also tell where they go on their route. Once you learn to navigate the Guia T effectively, getting around the city becomes a breeze.

5. The Argentimes

The Argentimes is a bi-weekly newspaper dedicated to the younger crowd of English-speakers in Buenos Aires. It covers topics including culture, economics, politics, the environment, and the social life of Argentines. Written by young people for young people, it’s a great way to plug into Argentine youth culture. And the best part? It’s free! Check their website for their distribution points or just download the .pdf file of each edition.

6. Buenos Aires Herald

The Buenos Aires Herald can fulfill your normal newspaper needs. It covers all sections that you’d expect to find in any major city publication, covering Argentine issues and newsworthy events with quality English writing. Make sure you take advantage of the Sunday edition, which contains articles from the New York Times and an excellent job classifieds section specifically targeted to English speakers. Use it in conjunction with Craigslist to optimize your job search! You can find the Herald at most newsstands in the Microcentro, but try to buy your paper early because they often don’t keep more than 4 or 5 copies stocked.

7. What’s Up Buenos Aires

What’s Up Buenos Aires (WUBA) is a one-stop spot for all sorts of nightlife and cultural events taking place in the city. They cover music, art, theater, restaurants, and bars, plus they offer tours and excursions with their own staff leading. Their articles range from gallery openings, artist interviews, and concert coverage to restaurant ratings, photography, and cultural articles. Run by Americans, the site is a gold mine for those wanting to experience the amazing nightlife Buenos Aires offers.

8. SaltShaker

SaltShaker is a food and restaurant blog run an expat American chef and sommelier. The guy has reviewed an impressive number of restaurants around town, complete with photos of his favorite dishes. He’s also been so kind as to organize them into genre, so to speak (Italian, Asian Fusion, Argentine, etc.). He also does top ten lists for various types of food. If you’re looking for an English language guide to the amazing cuisine Buenos Aires has to offer, you can’t go wrong with SaltShaker.

9. Guia Oleo

Guia Oleo is similar to SaltShaker, but is more comprehensive and organized. A button at the bottom of the page allows you to switch to English. If you’ve ever used Yelp back in the US, Guia Oleo has a very similar feature set (just limited to restaurants). The site allows you to rate your dining experience at restaurants, so you can see reviews from tourists and porteños alike at any restaurant you can think of. They keep a top ten list organized by these ratings, so you can also find the top ten restaurants in the city as chosen by the people.

10. Wikitravel

Anyone that has come to Buenos Aires as an expat probably loves to travel, and will want to see as much of Argentina and South America as possible. I’m a research nerd; I love to study things to death before actually traveling there. Being that I’m obsessed with travel, I tend to map out lots of itineraries based out of Buenos Aires. I use Wikitravel for most of my travel research needs. Anytime I’m taking a trip, it’s the first place I look for information. Wikitravel is a user-generated resource in the vein of Wikipedia, so it’s constantly updated with the newest information available.

Conclusion

If you take advantage of all the sites I listed above, I guarantee that your transition to the life of a porteño will be much easier. Also, if you liked that list, I wrote about some of my favorite general travel resources in this post. ¡Suerte!

Money… That’s What I Want!!

Published on November 22, 2008 in Buenos Aires and Expat Advice. 3 Comments Tags: Buenos Aires, Economy.

Interesting happenings are afoot here in Argentina. With the nationalization of all the private pension funds here, quite a few locals are understandably pissed. This isn’t chump change either, we’re talking in the neighborhood of $30 billion in private holdings. Being that I’m a philosophy major, I’ll point you guys to a much better analysis here.

The corruption in the government has come to be accepted, even on this scale. And after being duped at the bank during my first few weeks here, I can believe it. If we keep heading in this direction, I’m not going to be able to stay here. I have some savings in US dollars, but down here as an expat I’m earning in pesos and with the devaluation expected to eventually hit 3.5 pesos to the dollar, I’ll be in trouble. Inflation is galloping along quite nicely as well.

Buenos Aires certainly is kind to those earning in pounds, euros, or dollars, but if you’re a wet behind the ears college graduate like myself, the illusion of teaching English to get by is officially over. On the flip side, it has definitely lit a fire under my rear end to make freelancing work. Talk about incentive!

Oh, and one last PSA: don’t talk on the phone while cooking on a stove. Multitasking in the kitchen is a dangerous game. Blogging with burnt fingers is no fun.