Archive for the 'Buenos Aires' Category

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What Can Long-Term Travel Teach You?

What will you learn about yourself if you take the plunge into the life of an expat or take that two month backpacking trip around Southeast Asia?  Long-term travel has many lessons to impart, and I’ve decided to create a series of posts highlighting the top 5 things I’ve learned on my own travels to here, there and everywhere.  What is number one you ask?

1. Self-Sufficiency

The number one thing I’ve learned from traveling extensively is how to solve problems on my own.  You have no one to rely on but yourself when your support network is 5,000 miles away.

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Who is that strapping young lad you ask?  Well, that’s me in Brussels circa 2004, on my first trip outside the country.  I had just graduated from high school, and accompanied by my best friend Davy and his older brother Michael, we set off to bike about Europe for two months.  Inevitably, we ran into some problems during our time there.

That bike in the photo is pretty isn’t it?  Almost as if it was… brand new?  Well, it was.  I had to buy a brand new bike in Brussels when my perfectly decent used bike was stolen on the street by hoodlums.  And regardless of what my Dad contends, I took all reasonable precautions, but it’s hard to withstand industrial strength lock shears.

So there I was, stuck in Brussels sans bike, with my two companions itching to get back on the road.  Did I mention I didn’t speak French?  We had to look up, locate, and talk to a bike shop in Brussels that was willing to sell me a new bike, and negotiate features and price all in a language I’d never heard outside of walking by French classes in high school.  We got it done — with our fair share of headaches and things lost in translation — but we got it done.

And you know what?  I’m glad it happened.  When you’re alone in a foreign country and you fix a huge problem like that on your own, you get a newfound sense of worldliness.  I was headed off to college when I returned from my trip, and I was very nervous before leaving for Europe.  But following the bike theft and myriad other problems that cropped up while there, what could college really throw at me that I couldn’t deal with?  I came out of the whole ordeal all the better for it.

If you encounter problems of your own while traveling, embrace them!  They’re bound to happen, and dealing with them while outside your comfort zone will only make the problems you encounter back home seem insignificant in comparison.  I lost a bike, but I came back to the US ready to handle whatever came my way.

5 Gadget Greats

There are certain toys that I simply can’t do without when gallivanting about the world.  They keep me sane and help me pass the time when I’m not out and about exploring.  They’re become especially important to me now that I’ve been living abroad as an expat.

1. Laptop

Easily takes the top spot.  I use it for countless tasks.  All of my work I do here is done on my laptop.  I work from it, set my schedule on it, research and plan trips on it, you name it I probably do it on my laptop.  It’s my number one piece of hardware.  And with technology allowing for smaller and smaller laptops that have become ultra-portable, I see no reason why they shouldn’t accompany anyone on a long-term trip.  Plus with the increasingly common availability of wifi, you can easily stay connected if need be.

2. iPod

I’m a music freak.  I can’t help it.  I love finding out what the popular groups are in a place I’m staying and throwing them on my iPod.  I also use it for Spanish language podcasts to practice advanced vocabulary and grammar tenses.  Makes for a more productive trip on mass transportation.  Buenos Aires also offers podcast walking tours for free on their tourism website; a great alternative to paying for the guided ones!

3. Digital Camera

My digital camera allows me to shoot photos of dang near everything.  I take it with me everywhere.  I’ve been in Buenos Aires 4 months and I already have well over 1,000 pictures from the city.  Don’t worry, I’m going through them now to add to the photo page on here!  I have two 4gb SD cards that I keep with my camera, so I have more than enough space to shoot any trip I’m on.  Combine my camera with my laptop and iPod, and have all my photos stored and sorted.

4. Cell Phone

Before I left the states I made an investment in an unlocked quad-band 3G phone.  I use the Nokia E51, and it has served me very well thus far.  Quad-band means my phone can be used anywhere in the world, so long as I get a local plan and pop in a new SIM card.  3G means it can use the highest speed networks that the best carriers operate on.  And since my phone is unlocked it can be used with any carrier, even when / if I return to the US.  Pretty snazzy little sucker.

5. Universal Adapter

I bought a set from Brookstone that covers all my bases for power around the world.  They have various plugs and adapters that’ll cover any outlet I come across.  And it all stores in a snug little case that stores easily (with a map of what to use where on the inner lid!).  Definitely worth grabbing if you’ll be hitting multiple countries.

Wrap Up

If you can’t tell, I’m quite the nerd.  I love my toys, and very rarely am I completely disconnected.  I already know that I’ll be working on joining the ranks of flashpackers soon enough.  Backpacking with cool points.  What about you guys?  Any other gadget suggestions that you just can’t live without on the wide open road?

10 Things Expats In BA Should Take Advantage Of

I wrote this up over the weekend for MiniHostels, but I think it’s great stuff to have for anyone looking to live as an expat in Buenos Aires.  Some of these are specific to here, but anyone looking to travel long term can take advantage of resources like Wikitravel or Craigslist.  Without further ado, my top 10 expat / Buenos Aires resources:

1. BA Expats

BA Expats is a great resource. It’s a forum run by expats, for expats. You can get all of your questions answered here by people who have been living in Buenos Aires for years. BA Expats was the first site I found when I started doing research on living down here, and I still use it daily to organize meet ups and ask questions that pop up from time to time. There are lots of great people that will be more than happy to help you with your transition.

2. Expat Connection

Expat Connection is similar to BA Expats, but organizes more events and meet ups. They have a calendar where they post things ranging from group trips to medical insurance information sessions. Their forum is not nearly as active as BA Expats. Combine Expat Connection with BA Expats and you’ll be very plugged into what’s happening here in Buenos Aires for foreigners.

3. Craigslist

Craigslist is the best of the best for finding apartments and work in Buenos Aires. Craigslist is constantly updated with room shares and a huge range of apartments fitting any price range, sure to fit the needs of anyone that needs a place to stay. They also usually beat the prices of securing a room from abroad by a fair margin. It’s also the best resource for finding a job in the city. The job board is updated with many jobs daily, and if you pay attention over the course of a week or two you’re sure to find something that suits you. You can also use it to find odds and ends like a bike or cheap electronics. Can you tell I’m a fan?

4. The Guia T

The Guia T is the single most useful tool for getting around the city of Buenos Aires. It can be bought at any newsstand in the Microcentro, for just 5 or 6 pesos. More than worth the price tag. It’s features include an index of every street in greater Buenos Aires corresponding to a numbered grid mapping system, a map of the subway system, and every single bus line that runs within the city. Using the grids, you can look up which buses stop in that area, and by looking up the specific bus line in the index, you can also tell where they go on their route. Once you learn to navigate the Guia T effectively, getting around the city becomes a breeze.

5. The Argentimes

The Argentimes is a bi-weekly newspaper dedicated to the younger crowd of English-speakers in Buenos Aires. It covers topics including culture, economics, politics, the environment, and the social life of Argentines. Written by young people for young people, it’s a great way to plug into Argentine youth culture. And the best part? It’s free! Check their website for their distribution points or just download the .pdf file of each edition.

6. Buenos Aires Herald

The Buenos Aires Herald can fulfill your normal newspaper needs. It covers all sections that you’d expect to find in any major city publication, covering Argentine issues and newsworthy events with quality English writing. Make sure you take advantage of the Sunday edition, which contains articles from the New York Times and an excellent job classifieds section specifically targeted to English speakers. Use it in conjunction with Craigslist to optimize your job search! You can find the Herald at most newsstands in the Microcentro, but try to buy your paper early because they often don’t keep more than 4 or 5 copies stocked.

7. What’s Up Buenos Aires

What’s Up Buenos Aires (WUBA) is a one-stop spot for all sorts of nightlife and cultural events taking place in the city.  They cover music, art, theater, restaurants, and bars, plus they offer tours and excursions with their own staff leading.  Their articles range from gallery openings, artist interviews, and concert coverage to restaurant ratings, photography, and cultural articles.  Run by Americans, the site is a gold mine for those wanting to experience the amazing nightlife Buenos Aires offers.

8. SaltShaker

SaltShaker is a food and restaurant blog run an expat American chef and sommelier. The guy has reviewed an impressive number of restaurants around town, complete with photos of his favorite dishes. He’s also been so kind as to organize them into genre, so to speak (Italian, Asian Fusion, Argentine, etc.). He also does top ten lists for various types of food. If you’re looking for an English language guide to the amazing cuisine Buenos Aires has to offer, you can’t go wrong with SaltShaker.

9. Guia Oleo

Guia Oleo is similar to SaltShaker, but is more comprehensive and organized. A button at the bottom of the page allows you to switch to English. If you’ve ever used Yelp back in the US, Guia Oleo has a very similar feature set (just limited to restaurants). The site allows you to rate your dining experience at restaurants, so you can see reviews from tourists and porteños alike at any restaurant you can think of. They keep a top ten list organized by these ratings, so you can also find the top ten restaurants in the city as chosen by the people.

10. Wikitravel

Anyone that has come to Buenos Aires as an expat probably loves to travel, and will want to see as much of Argentina and South America as possible. I’m a research nerd; I love to study things to death before actually traveling there. Being that I’m obsessed with travel, I tend to map out lots of itineraries based out of Buenos Aires. I use Wikitravel for most of my travel research needs. Anytime I’m taking a trip, it’s the first place I look for information. Wikitravel is a user-generated resource in the vein of Wikipedia, so it’s constantly updated with the newest information available.

Conclusion

If you take advantage of all the sites I listed above, I guarantee that your transition to the life of a porteño will be much easier. Also, if you liked that list, I wrote about some of my favorite general travel resources in this post.  ¡Suerte!

New Neighborhood in Time For The New Year

Say goodbye to Palermo.  I’ve left the swanky bars and modern construction behind, and have made the move to San Telmo, birthplace of the Tango.  The barrio is very different from Palermo, that’s for sure.  Lots of old and crumbling edifices, more writers, artists, and bohemians, and more porteños.  Feels more like Buenos Aires should if you ask me.  I think I’m going to get along here just fine.

My new apartment is right off Calle Defensa, which runs right through the middle of everything.  I’ll be living in a prime spot, a 5 minute walk from both Plaza Dorrego and Parque Lezama.  My new favorite pastime is people watching in Plaza Dorrego, you get a really eclectic mix of locals, tourists, expats, tango dancers, and peddlers.  I’m also looking forward to the legion of new restaurants and bars to try out.  Oh, and the best part is the $200 drop in my monthly rent.  I can definitely dig that.

In other news, I’ve decided on Brazil for my Christmas vacation.  I’ll be heading up to Iguazu and Florianopolis for two weeks.  Probably spend three or four days in Iguazu enjoying the falls and exploring everything the parks have to offer, then off to Florianopolis for 9 or 10 days of surfing and snorkeling.  Florianopolis is known for its waves, and I’m hoping I’ll be able to scratch off #12 from my travel life list after my time there!

Deck The Halls With… International Travel?

This is the first year that I’m not going to be home for Christmas with my family, and I’m going to miss it.  I wish I could see all of them, and I’d especially like to see my sister again now that she can walk, but it just isn’t in the cards.  I know she reads this, so I want to say that I’m incredibly glad you’ll be back at UNC next semester, you’ve had an amazing attitude throughout this whole mess, and I love you.  For those of you not in the know, my sister was involved in a drunken driving incident (she was an innocent bystander walking home) that gave her some serious injuries.  It’s amazing what you take for granted until it’s almost taken away from you.  So in the spirit of Thanksgiving, I’m thankful that my sister is alive and doing well, that the rest of my family is healthy, and that I’ve been given the incredible opportunity to live in Buenos Aires!

My roommate is going back home for Christmas, and I definitely don’t want to spend it alone in my apartment, so I’ve decided to do a bit of traveling over the holidays.  I’ve got a couple options right now, but Chile with my friends Jo and Kelsey currently holds the top spot.  We’d hit up a couple of beaches in southern Chile and just relax.  A white Christmas, even if it’s white sand.  We’ve even lucked out on one of the reciprocity fees down here, since Chile only charges the fee if you fly in.  Buses it is!

With luck, I’ll even score free accomodation through MiniHostels.  If anyone has tips for things to do around Valparaíso, I’d love to hear them!  I’ll add some more updates on the itinerary as soon as it’s fleshed out.

Money… That’s What I Want!!

Interesting happenings are afoot here in Argentina.  With the nationalization of all the private pension funds here, quite a few locals are understandably pissed.  This isn’t chump change either, we’re talking in the neighborhood of $30 billion in private holdings.  Being that I’m a philosophy major, I’ll point you guys to a much better analysis here.

The corruption in the government has come to be accepted, even on this scale.  And after being duped at the bank during my first few weeks here, I can believe it.  If we keep heading in this direction, I’m not going to be able to stay here.  I have some savings in US dollars, but down here as an expat I’m earning in pesos and with the devaluation expected to eventually hit 3.5 pesos to the dollar, I’ll be in trouble.  Inflation is galloping along quite nicely as well.

Buenos Aires certainly is kind to those earning in pounds, euros, or dollars, but if you’re a wet behind the ears college graduate like myself, the illusion of teaching English to get by is officially over.  On the flip side, it has definitely lit a fire under my rear end to make freelancing work.  Talk about incentive!

Oh, and one last PSA: don’t talk on the phone while cooking on a stove.  Multitasking in the kitchen is a dangerous game.  Blogging with burnt fingers is no fun.

Carnies. Circus folk. Nomads, you know. Smell like cabbage. Small hands.

As I’ve gotten more involved with the expat community in Buenos Aires, I’ve come across a whole gaggle of talented bloggers.  It’s fun to read their sites when I can, but I decided it would be nice to create a community where every blogger could participate.  So to facilitate that I decided that a Buenos Aires Bloggers carnival was in order.  If you’ve never heard of a blog carnival, you can see what all the fuss is about here. It’s a link exchange on a grand scale.

I’m hoping some of my readers are bloggers from around here, and will submit some articles.  The first edition focuses on the question of why people decided to live in Buenos Aires, and what initially attracted them to the city.  I’ll be hosting it here on my blog on December 1st.  Here’s hoping it’s a success!

While I think it’ll make for a great community builder, I’m also hoping (a bit selfishly) that it’ll allow me to network with other writers and bloggers who know a thing or two about the freelancing profession.  Hey, I told you I’d be exploring the business side of blogging a bit more didn’t I?

Freelancing

I mentioned in this post that I was looking into freelancing, and after doing some research it seems that a lot of expats have had the same idea.  There are plenty of resources out there for someone looking to get started on their telecommute, and these are some of the ones I’ve come across that I think are very well written:

Freelance Writing Jobs

These guys put out daily links on job openings for bloggers and writers, listed by type and location.  They’re a great way to generate leads when first starting out, and I’ve begun to apply for the ones that fit my particular skill set.  Subscribe and you can get them sent to you every day!

Freelance Switch

Very nice blog that offering all sorts of hints and tips about how to live and work as a freelancer be it writing, design, etc.  They also have published an amazing e-book that covers every single aspect of freelancing.  Anything you can think of they’ve covered, no joke.  Oh, and they have a free podcast.  Can you tell I like this site?

Write to Done

Another site for writers, offers daily tips on how to improve your writing and such.  Not necessarily aimed at freelancer, it’s more in the vein of general writing.  I’ve been using this one for a while on how to improve this blog.  Good stuff.

Hopefully these sites will play an integral role in getting me my first gigs, and help other Buenos Aires expats find something a bit more fulfilling than the usual English teaching tap dance.

Sarkis

I haven’t done any restaurant reviews in a while, so I figured I’d throw up one of my favorite Buenos Aires spots: Sarkis!  If you’re ever in the mood for Middle-Eastern / Mediterranean fusion food then Sarkis has you covered.  I’ve eaten their probably more than any other local restaurant, since it strikes the perfect balance of cheap, close, and filling.

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Sarkis has an entire page of starters you can go with, though I’m a particularly big fan of the falafel.  They use a really interesting sauce that gives it a slightly sour / sweet taste, definitely haven’t had anything like it at other falafel joints.  Be careful with those starters though, because portions here are big, and you shouldn’t miss out on the main courses.  Behold, my favorite:

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The kebabs are wonderful, this guy here comes with chicken.  You’ve got your grilled onions, grilled tomatoes, huge chicken cubes, and enough yogurt sauce to drown a small child.  Oh, and what you see here is just a half portion.  They don’t mess around!

You can find Sarkis on Thames, only a block off of Avenida Cordoba.  If you want to do dinner try to get there around 8pm because the place fills up quick, especially on weekends.  And if you need a dining partner let me know, this is one expat that won’t pass up any opportunity for Sarkis!  Enjoy!

Mulleted… No More

Sadly, I was forced to cut off the mullet earlier this week.  The culprit, you ask?  Deadly heat ray humidity. I have no idea how these people keep long hair in the Spring, let alone the Summer.  Maybe it’s just an expat thing, but I’ll be pouring sweat just walking down the street, while older generations stay cozily bundled up and cool as a cucumber.  It boggles my mind.

I taught an English class last week where my student commented on the sheen of perspiration resting on my forehead.  How can my students take me seriously as a teacher when I can’t even stay cool?  As bad as that was, teaching English is child’s play compared to riding the subte in the morning.  The places where I teach are only three stops away — about a ten minute ride — but I come shooting out of the subte doors at my stop because I become very aerodynamic after being drenched in my own sweat.  I have no idea how these people don’t melt!  I have a light polo on and they’re wearing full suits, yet I’m the one perspiring?

And so, in the interest of my own health, beard and general shagginess have been shorn.  I’m back to my usual extremely short hair.  I will not allow Buenos Aires to set me alight once the real heat hits.  Sorry to all those that were looking forward to the full mulletude.

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As penance, I’ve posted the most embarrassing photo I have after shaving my head.